What is Fishing

Fishing is the activity of trying to catch fish. Fish are normally caught in the wild. Techniques for catching fish include hand gathering, spearing, netting, angling and trapping. “Fishing” may include catching aquatic animals other than fish, such as molluscs, cephalopods, crustaceans, and echinoderms.

Tips and Trick for Fishing

Congratulations, you decided to take up the greatest sport on the planet – fishing! Now you need to get geared up to hit the water.

Read the Fishing Story

The popularity of fishing has exploded over the last several decades. Many professional fishermen are just as much household names as NFL or NBA superstars.

Fishing Mapping when offline

Accessing your fishing maps has now become even easier with Fishidy’s new offline mapping feature. Simply select an area of the map, download it, and it will be accessible when fishing in remote locations or areas with poor internet connectivity – keeping you connected, even while disconnected!

Fishing Report and Details

The Upper Chesapeake Bay is home to some monster fish, but it’s not as easy as just launching your boat and flipping some docks. There are a lot of variables that need to be taken into consideration if you want to land a trophy!

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Sparse Vs. Heavily-dressed Flies

Sparse Flies

In the view of the soft-hackle devotees a fly should have a very slim body (usually of floss or minimal dubbing) and just one or two turns of hackle.These flies are wispy and impressionistic, leaving the fish to use their imagination and fill in the gaps between materials. Sparse flies work well in the following conditions:

  • In clear, slow moving water such as meandering meadow streams or spring creeks
  • Where the fish face a lot of pressure and see a lot of bulky store-bought flies
  • When the fish are spooky and highly selective
  • Shallow water



Heavily-dressed Flies

Many insects that trout eat are either round and plump, or have a wide, flat profile offering more protein. But heftier flies can also spook fish in the conditions mentioned above. Heavily-dressed flies are better suited to the following conditions:
  • On big water as a searching pattern
  • In stained or muddy water where visibility is low
  • When fishing large, deep pools
  • In high water
  • When targeting larger fish
  • In streams that harbor larger caddis or stoneflies

5 Ways to Get More Hook-Ups When You’re Using Tiny Flies

In winter, most anglers fish some of the smallest patterns of the year: midges, tiny olives, and downsized nymphs. A small fly must be tied on a small hook, which often means you lose more fish right off the bar because you don’t get a good hook set. You’ll also have a lower hook-up rate than you would with a size 12 fly, but here are a few things you can do to swing the odds a bit more in your favor.






1. Use a hook with a wide gap. The small gap on some hooks means that the body materials can get in the way. If the hook point never gets to the fish’s mouth, your chances of success are near zero. When you’re choosing hooks for patterns smaller than size 16, and especially for those 22s and 24s, consider the gap size.
2. Use a slightly longer hook shank. If you’re using tiny Soft Hackles or wet flies, try a hook with a longer shank to ensure that the hook point is unimpeded.
3. Tie sparse flies. Given numbers 1 and 2 above, it makes sense to tie patterns that have slim bodies and not a lot of hackle or other winging material interfering with the hook point.
4. Fish upstream as much as possible. When you’re using such a small hook, it’s very easy to yank it out of a fish’s mouth if the fish is downstream of you. For dries and nymphs, fish upstream. For wet flies, try to drift and swing the fly at as sharp an angle as possible, so you’re not pulling the fly directly away from the fish.
5. Set the hook to the side or downstream. To help with the problem described in #4, think about the direction of your hook set. Instead of throwing your rod tip to the sky when you get a hit, keep it low and sweep the tip to your downstream side, if possible. They, of course, is to do this as gently as possible, since you’re probably using 6X or smaller and you don’t want to pull the fly out of the fish.

Casting Multi Fly Rigs

After decades of getting tangles while trying to avoid them with such ill-behaved rigs, I’ve come up with some strategies. But it’s the dead of an especially cold winter here right now with river fishing a distant dream, and I know that memories (especially my memories, and especially at my age) soften and reshape themselves as their details slip away over time. So I set up a rig like the one you describe—what many call a “hopper-dropper” rig (heavy little nymph trailing off a big grasshopper-size dry fly)—and took it out on a lawn. A lawn is fine, though, since we’re talking not about fishing but about casting. Point is, I just went out and proved to myself that everything I’m about to tell you is valid.
There are several elements in play when you’re trying to get two (or more) ill-behaved flies out smoothly. The first element is vigilance—you just have to stay alert every moment as you cast a troublesome rig.
I learned this with the old (and still deadly), dropper nymph rig, with its soaring weighted nymphs and indicator just waiting for a chance to bounce into a hair-pulling snarl, a chance I dared not allow them. The components all seemed drawn together like magnets. I used to sit and curse and cut up and retie those rigs all the time. Gradually, though, I figured out that if I concentrated fully on my casting, never letting my attention drift, and did everything just right, I rarely got tangled. Sometimes (though not often) I’d go a whole day with but one rig and not a single problem.
It’s the same with your hopper-dropper rig with that long tippet for the dropper: you must give it your full and constant attention every moment it’s airborne.



The second element is patience. Impatience—rushing a casting stroke, not waiting for the flies to come around at the end of a stroke before starting the next one, these sorts of things—will catch up to you. And, typically, you won’t have to wait long until it does. So take your time, all the time you need. It can help to talk to yourself, repeating “I am not going to rush” or “Slow and easy” or, if you prefer the classics, “Haste makes waste.”
Let’s pause to take look at the casting stroke. Making the right stroke for a multiple-fly rig is element number three. The stroke must be smooth—a slow start building gradually to a quick rod-tip and, consequently, a quick line speed. Any inconsistencies, jerks or stalls, and the line starts bouncing and so does your rig and, well, good luck. Strive for control in your strokes, for grace.
Still looking at the cast in general, I believe that keeping the line away from the flies as they pass on opposite sides of the casting loop is a boon with a rig of two or more flies. So the fourth element is casting with a relatively open loop in the line. That’s easy: just keep the rod’s tip travelling a little extra at the end of the back and the forward casts—that widens the loop in the line to separate its sides, the side that’s the line from the side that’s leader, tippet, and flies.
Make the back and forward casting strokes on different planes—element number five—and you’ve got another way to help you avoid a multiple-fly tangle. (Actually, I generally combine two-plane casting with open line loops when I cast a problem-loving rig, and of course, as I mentioned, I also try to cast smoothly and with patience.) By two-plane casting I mean that after making a forward cast with the rod vertical, or close to it, you smoothly lower the rod tip to the side a little for the back cast. You raise the rod tip again as you begin the next forward cast and so on. This makes the line follow a sort of elongated oval course—and not only does the rig stay away from the line, but instead of jerking around at the end of the stroke it swings around, following a mild curve. Smooth, smooth…
Element number six, the final element of casting an unruly rig without problems, covers the surprise events, the kind that can come when you tug the hook home but nothing’s there or when a fish just comes off on a deeply bent rod and the rig comes flying at you. That sort of pandemonium. You instinctively try to get everything under control, but there’s too much chaos for you to tame and…ta da: tangle! The best solution I’ve found when the rig suddenly goes haywire is to just drop the rod-tip and let everything fall; then draw in the line, leader, and rig. You’ll have to fuss a little to work it all back out into a cast, but the time you’ll lose is only a fraction of the time it takes to chop apart a whole nasty tippet-riot and build a new one.
As far as the second part of your question goes, Stan, about whether there’s a better rig than the hopper-dropper for what you’re trying to do, I’ll just say this: the hopper-dropper rig, with the big dry tied to the tippet and the heavy little nymph on its own tippet knotted to the bend of the big dry’s hook, is by now well established and widely trusted. There are other similar rigs, but I haven’t found them any easier to manage than the hopper dropper, so I can’t see any reason you shouldn’t stick with it. Simply put: I don’t think a different rig is the solution to your two-fly casting challenges; I do think my six elements of taming troublesome rigs are.

10 Trolling Baits to Try for Walleye This Year

If you’re a walleye angler, you probably know that there are a ton of lures that guarantee you will catch fish. It can be confusing and overwhelming to those without years of experience. While there are so many great options to choose from, there are certain things to look for when selecting a new spread. Price, quality and how the lure will run are all important variables to consider.
Here are ten baits to add to your tackle box this season:

1. Bay Rat Lures

bay rat lures long extra deep diver my secret
Bay Rat Lures are designed for walleye anglers, by walleye anglers. With a large and ever-growing variety of color and size options specifically directed toward walleye, Bay Rats are a great option to add to your box. They have quality hooks, are 100% made in the USA and are one of the most durable lures on the market.

2. Smithwick Rogue

smithwick suspending elite 8 rogue lady
The Smithwick Rogue has hit the walleye market at full speed over the last few years. They offer a good variety of colors and always run true. Most Rogue models suspend, which is great for choppy days. This allows the bait to pause for a second or two when at the bottom of a wave, giving the fish time to eat it. From the paint to the structure of the lure, the Rogue series is extremely versatile.

3. Storm Thunderstick

storm fishusa custom color original deep thundersticks barbie
Storm Thundersticks are a must-have in every walleye angler’s tackle box. From shallow to deep divers, short to long body lengths, Thundersticks are a well-rounded lure. They are priced competitively and hold up well. With plenty of color options and ultra-tough VMC hooks, Thundersticks are a top choice for anglers across the nation.

4. Rapala Husky Jerk

rapala husky jerk glass clown
The Rapala Husky Jerk comes in multiple sizes and running depths. With a good variety of color schemes and quality VMC hooks, this is a great option. The Husky Jerk is a suspending bait, making it an excellent choice for your tackle box.

5. Bandit Walleye Deep Diver

bandit fishusa custom color walleye deep divers night vision
It’s in the name, there is no surprise that the Bandit Walleye Deep Diver is a proven walleye killer. This bait has picked up steam in the Great Lakes region since its inception and has proven to be a top choice for walleye anglers. There are many color options, including FishUSA Custom Colors, and they can achieve up to 27 feet when trolling. This is a great go-to lure for walleye.

6. Berkley Flicker Minnow

berkley flicker minnow slick mouse
The Berkley Flicker Minnow has a variety of sizes and colors. They are a proven fish producer amongst anglers across the nation. Berkley Flicker Minnows are the most affordable walleye lures on this list, yet still offer great quality.

7. Reef Runner Lures

reef runner 800 series deep divers bare naked
Reef Runner Lures are, without a doubt, one of the most popular lures for walleyes on the Great Lakes. With a vast selection of colors and plenty of sizes to choose from, they are a great choice. The Reef Runner 800 series can dive nearly 30 feet. Reef Runner tend to need adjustment before being set in your spread, as well as after catching fish. That being said, the Reef Runner Tune-A-Fish Crankbait Tuner will fix tuning issues in seconds.

8. Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow Walleye Deep Divers

yo-zuri crystal minnow walleye deep diver hot perch
The Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow Walleye Deep Divers have been a proven lure for walleye fishing for a long time. The new walleye series costs less than other models of Yo-Zuri lures and perform just as great. With saltwater grade hooks and excellent color schemes, these lures are a great option to add to your arsenal.

9. Renosky Crystalina Divers

renosky crystalina shallow diver yellow orange
Renosky Crystalina Shallow and Deep Divers are excellent choices for walleye fishing. With their unique honeycomb texture that gives off added flash, these baits are consistent producers.

10. Bomber Long A

bomber long a disco ball
For most walleye anglers, the Bomber Long A is already in their box. If it’s not, it needs to be. This lure is a classic that has been on the market for decades and has been a staple for walleye anglers everywhere. From deep to shallow depths and short to long body lengths, these lures catch fish.

Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Stayin’ Alive – Best Ways to Keep Your Bait Fresh

The late summer months typically cause water temperatures to soar, leading to fish slowing their feeding habits. While artificial lures still work great in most situations, live bait holds a huge advantage for less aggressive and pressured fish. The main issue anglers run into when using live bait during the summer is keeping it alive. Here are some different ways to keep your bait alive this summer:

Aerators

This is an essential tool for keeping any aquatic bait alive during the summer. There are tons of aerators on the market. The key to choosing the right aerator is making sure you look at the amount of water it can aerate. Also, adding ice to your water will help protect baitfish, however, only a few cubes because adding too much can cause baitfish to go into shock.



Bedding

Making sure your worms have good bedding will give them the strength to withstand harsher conditions. Make sure to always keep worms out of direct sunlight. Frabill Crawler Cabins are great because they absorb water and act like a cooler to keep worms cool and lively.

Ice Coolers

One great way to keep worms alive is to take a small drink cooler and freeze two or three inches of water at the bottom. This will keep your worms fresh for several hours and will not melt as quickly as ice that is chunked and separated. Also, adding an ice pack or two can help. Containers like Frabill’s Universal Bait Can are great for night crawlers. Simply throw ice in one side and crawlers in the other before you go fishing.

Insulated Containers

The Frabill Insulated Bait Bucket with Aerator is a great “one, two punch” for keeping baitfish alive. This container not only aerates the water, but it also insulates the bait, keeping it at a more consistent temperature. StrikeMaster Bait Puck Bait Containers are great for keep grubs and wax worms alive longer as well.

Tablets

Sure-Life Bait Buddies Tablets work well for both short trips and as a backup solution for keeping your baitfish alive. These tablets also remove chlorine from the water so as to not harm the baitfish.

BaitUp!

The BaitUp containers are a great solution for fishing small streams and wading during the summer months. Simply put your baitfish in the container and periodically replace the water as needed. These containers allow you to open them, dump the old water out, and refresh the water in seconds. The Frabill Galvanized Wade Bucket and Quick Minnow work great for this as well.